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GRAY
GUIDING:
1. Take any bold/solid stamp image & stamp onto cardstock using
the Going Grey ink pad.
2. Color in & around the image in a light chalk color (ex: light
pink for flowers & lime green for leaves, etc.) with a Q-tip
or cotton ball.
3. Now go over gray lines again in a darker chalk color (ex: purple
for flowers, evergreen for leaves, etc.).
4. Spray with sealer or even with hairspray to set the chalk.
(Next steps are optional)
5. Follow along the gray lines again, but with the glue pen this
time.
6. Sprinkle with glitter over the glue & shake excess off. You
may have to do steps 5 & 6 in sections so the glue doesn't dry
all the way. This technique gives your work a hand painted look.
SILVER ENCORE
GUIDING
1. Stamp bold lined image using Silver Encore Ink.
2. Rub off selected parts of shimmer with pastel-loaded applicator.
Like the Gray Guiding effect where parts of the image shimmers
POPPIN PASTELS
- CHALK RESIST - FAUX OIL PASTEL
1. Apply 2 - 3 different colors (that look good together) of light
colored chalk with a cottonball (or sponge daubers) across cardstock.
2. Ink up an image with tinted or clear embossing ink (some use
white pigment ink for a different look). Stamp image onto the cardstock.
3. Make sure that the ink dries onto the cardstock, when it's no
longer shiny (Natural's cardstock works best).
4. Apply chalk colors onto the tinted image with Q-Tips or sponge
daubers. The chalk will "darken" when it adheres to the
ink.
5. Continue to add color, starting with the lightest going to the
darkest until you are satisfied.
6. If you are using a 2-Step stamp, go over the image with the second
step and repeat the process.
Variation of
Poppin' Pastels
1. Stamp several of the same images with clear embossing ink on
white paper. Let dry.
2. Dip a cotton ball into one color of chalk & then lightly
rub over & around the images.
3. This creates a great background.
4. Use a dye-base ink pad that matches the color of chalk used.
Stamp the same image used before randomly in dye-based ink. (ex:
Dragon Fly stamped in Eggplant Envy with Eggplant Envy chalked background)
FUN
FOAM - ALMOST LEATHER (feels like leather after it's heated)
Fun Foam is a product that is found in craft stores....it's quite
thin & comes in many different colors.
1. For best results use bold image stamps.
2. Cut out a piece that is larger than the image that you've chosen.
3. Heat up the piece of fun foam with a heat tool for about 20 seconds
on each side. It will get quite hot & may curl.
4. Stamp your image into the heated foam & press hard (10 seconds).
When you remove the stamp the image has made an impression in the
foam. If you are not satisfied....reheat & start all over.
5. When you have the image you want....trim around it & adhere
to a card or other craft project with mounting tape (double sided
foam tape).
Fun FoamVariation:
1. Cut a piece of fun foam to the same size as the block of wood
on your stamp.
2. Using a stylus to hold the foam in place on your work surface,
heat with your heat gun.
3. After edges curl a bit, stamp design (inked or uninked) into
the foam. Let cool. (It feels like leather when cool.)
4. Trim and mount to project. (ex: Button Bear with black ink on
brown foam . Then colored bow & button with markers.)
THUMPING
1. Ink your stamp up with a light colored ink pad. The stamps that
work best are bold/solid.
2. For the next step use 2-3 colors of markers that you think would
look pretty against the ink pad.
3. Take the cap off the brush tip end of the marker....& "tap"
the side of the brush tip on the bold inked image. Repeat with other
colors. Huff on the image & stamp. You now have a multicolored
image (tie-dyed or
marbleized look).
DIRTY STAMPING
(VARIATION OF THUMPING)
1. Ink your stamp up with a light colored ink pad. The stamps that
work best are bold/solid.
For the next step use 2-3 colors of markers that you think would
look pretty against
the ink pad. Take the cap off the brush tip end of the marker....&
"tap" the side of the brush tip on
the bold inked image. Repeat with other colors.
4. *Variation: Take an old watercolor paint brush & pounce over
the colors to blend them. Huff on the image & stamp. You now
have a multicolored image (tie-dyed or marbleized look).
TAG
ART
Use of common shipping tags & pricing tags can add a new dimension
to an art project or card. Use them in a collage or on it's own.
Can be a great way to embellish your work.
PHOTO
POSTCARDS
Materials:
Colorless blending marker with xylene
Black & white copy of original photo - photo can be either color
or black & white.
Photocopy paper
black card
Directions:
1. Make a black & white copy of a photograph
2. Position the copy picture side down on the card. When practicing
for the first time, it's best to do the rubbing on plain piece of
copy paper. Move to heavier cardstock after you've gained some experience.
3. Rub the backside of the photocopy with the blending marker. Note:
You will need to go over it a few times to get the best transfer,
& remember, everything comes out in reverse.
4. Without lifting the photocopy from the card, gently lift a corner,
& peek underneath to see how the transfer is coming along. Sometimes
the xylene in the pen will release fibers from the copy paper that
look like little spiders. Brush these away with either a finger
or the tip of the blender. More often than not they add an antique
look to the finished transfer.
5. If everything looks as you want it, remove photocopy. If not,
leave the copy in place, & repeat step 3. After you're done,
the copy is not usable again as a transfer, but you can cut it up
& use it as a mask. This is especially helpful if you want to
sponge or airbrush around it.
6. Color in the project with markers, colored pencils or airbrush.
The paper you transferred onto will determine the best coloring
agents. Note: This technique also transfers beautifully onto unfinished
wooden boxes, so be sure to experiment with other surfaces, too.
Color copies can be transferred as well.
PHOTO STAMPING
(as per Suze Weinberg - The Art of Rubber Stamping)
Materials:
Glossy or matte-finished photograph of clouds or water
Scenic rubber stamps
Dye-based, permanent or archival-quality ink pad in dark color(s)
"Ancient Page Ink Pads"
Dye-based markers, sponges or an airbrush
Spray Sealant - optional
Directions:
1. Stamp directly onto the photo surface & allow the ink to
settle & dry. Pick stamps with scenic overtones to make the
cloud pictures resemble real postcards. Note: Don't be afraid to
mask areas to make the overall design look realistic.
2. When the photo is processed at the lab it is coated with an emulsion.
Don't heat the photo surface with a heat gun in order to speed the
drying time of the ink. The heat will cause the emulsion to bubble.
3. After the ink dries, use sponges, markers or an airbrush directly
on the surface of the stamped photo to color.
4. Seal the color with a glossy spray sealant if desired.
SPONGING
There are many types of sponges:
Cosmetic/Facial Sponges * Porous Everyday Sponges (celluloid) *
Natural Sponges * Bathtoy Sponges
There are different methods of use:
Cut & tear sponges for different texture * Use different amounts
of pressure to get darker or lighter effects*
Use sponges either dry or slightly dampened with water * Tapping,
smudging, smearing & circular motions are all ways to get different
effects & textures *
Flicking edges of cardstock
1. Sponge around
paper masks which you have cut or torn or stencils.
2. Sponge through paper doilies, lace or netting for a delicate
Victorian look.
3. Sponge grass in several shades of green & applying different
amounts of pressure.
4. Sponge around die-cuts to create a silhouette.
5. Make stencils using a different craft punches - sponge through
them.
You can dip
your sponges in ink pads or apply color with a marker on your sponge.
CONDENSED SPONGE
CARDS
Materials:
small condensed sponge * stamp pad reinkers * glossy white paper
* small spray bottle of water * scratch paper * gloves optional
Steps:
1. Apply ink to both sides of one small sponge
2. Spray lightly with water
3. Place card on larger backup scratch paper to catch excess ink
4. Pull the inked edge of the sponge across the card (be sure to
start on the scratch paper) be sure to use one fluid motion or else
you will get what I call a hic up. Be sure to begin and end off
the paper.
5. Repeat step 4 as needed to achieve the desired look, or pattern.
Mist lightly with water to keep the ink flowing smoothly.
Tips:
Use rubber gloves to keep hands clean
Using one fluid motion will give you the best flow of color
sponges dry slowly , so take care in handling and storing them.
You can ink up the sponge & spritz the water on the sponge to
remoisten the ink. You can also do
this with markers on the sponge & pull it across the paper,
spritz to remoistened & do it again. You can also place the
sponge, inked up, in one place on the cardstock & twist or swirl
it.
COMPRESSED SPONGE
(variation of condensed sponge technique)
Materials:
Stampin' Write Markers * Compressed sponge * Windex cleaner * Glossy
card stock
Steps:
1. Press many different colors of the Stampin' Write Markers along
one cut edge of the compressed sponge.
2. Lightly spritz colored edge of the sponge with a mixture of half
water and half Windex.
3. Run edge of sponge over surface of the card to create multi-colored
stripes, until the entire card is covered. Add any pre-stamped images
if desired. Experiment with your sponge to produce different effects
like squiggles and plaids.
RAINBOW SOOT
CARDS
1. Take glossy cardstock & brayer a Kalidacolor rainbow ink
across the card.
2. Light a candle & hold it very close to the wick to turn the
card "black" with soot.
3. Once it's covered in soot, I stamp an image (no ink) into the
soot. This allows the rainbow colors to show through.
4. Spray seal your work.
SOOT CARDS
Materials:
Candle * Glossy Cardstock * Rubber Stamp
Directions:
1. Light the candle & carefully move the glossy cardstock (glossy
side towards flame) over the flame. The flame actually needs to
touch the cardstock.
2. If you hold the cardstock at an angle you will get more coverage
faster. Be especially careful near the edges & corners, they
are most apt to catch fire.
3. When the cardstock is covered with soot to your satisfaction
, stamp an uninked stamp onto it. Press firmly but do not wiggle.
4. Lift straight up.
5. Immediately spray card with a spray fixative. Hold the can 12"
- 14" above the card.....sort of spraying away from the card.
Once the stream of spray is coming out evenly move the nozzle toward
your card....keeping a 12" distance. If you don't do this,
you'll get little polka dots form the pressure in the can pushing
the soot around on the card.
Note: It's very difficult to do this on a full size card. It's recommended
that you cover a piece of cardstock with soot, stamp, spray, let
dry & then cut out the image & glue it onto another piece
of cardstock.
PAPIER
MACHE PAINTING & STAMPING
Materials:
Assorted Acrylic Paints * Clear Acrylic Sealer Spray (matte &/or
glossy) * Sponge Brushes * Heat Tool *Assorted Colors of Fabrico
Ink Pads * Assorted
Markers * Watercolor Brush * Pastels * Embellishments * Glue
Directions:
1. Spray seal the paper mache with a clear acrylic sealer spray.
Let dry.
2. Cover entire surface with acrylic paint. Paint several (3-4)
coats & let dry in between each coat. Let final coat dry.
3. Stamp images in Fabrico Real Black. Heat set with heat tool.
4. Take a lightly wet paint brush & dip it into the Fabrico
ink pads to "paint in each color". Heat set with heat
tool. The colors that were painted in will seem faded.
5. Shade with markers - watercolor method. The Fabrico inks seem
to help the markers go on without streaks & shading the markers
make the colors more vibrant. You can also apply the marker directly
to the painted Fabrico surface.
6. To bring out the images you can chalk around them.....blues or
gray. Apply a little color of red pastel for cheek color.
7. Lightly spray seal the whole object & let dry.
8. Add embellishments. Hot glue bows or buttons for a quick &
solid adhesion.
ENVELOPES
Materials:
Patterned Tissue Paper * Freezer Paper (located near the wax paper
at the store) * Iron * Envelope Template
Directions:
Place the wrong side of the tissue paper to the waxed side of the
freezer paper.iron together. The freezer paper fuses to the tissue
paper. The paper is now sturdy enough to make an envelope out of
it using the envelope templates.
Variation:
Before placing tissue paper on to the freezer paper... wad it up
creating wrinkles/texture and then flatten out
and iron onto the freezer paper. Adds another dimension to your
paper/envelope.
Tips:
Make enough of the tissue/freezer paper for gift wrap. It always
makes a great impression when the gift wrap and envelope match.
And it looks nice, too!
ENVELOPE GLUE
1 package Unflavored Gelatin * 1 Tbs. Cold Water * 3 Tbs. Boiling
water * ½ tsp. White Corn Syrup or Sugar * ½ tsp.
Lemon or Vanilla Extract
1. In a small bowl, sprinkle gelatin over the cold water to soften
for 5 minutes. Pour in the boiling water & mix until dissolved.
Add corn syrup & extract & mix well.
2. Brush thin coating on envelope flap. Let dry.
To store put in closed container in the refrigerator. To use again
microwave for 20 seconds on High. Check for brushability.
BACKGROUND STAMPS/ENVELOPES
If you stamp the envelopes with the background stamps (lace or plaid)
you can coordinate them with your cards. If you mask a rectangle
in the front, like in the portfolio, you will have an area to write
the mailing address. This would work well in a demo as well to sell
the background stamps. Consider using background papers to make
envelopes if you don't feel like stamping them.
VELLUM ENVELOPES
Simply use one of the envelope templates with a sheet of vellum!
CELLO BAG ENVELOPES
You can address the "back: of your card, instead of writing
handstamped by. Put the card into a cello bag. Use the 6x8 cello
bag. Cut 2" above the card and 1/2" angle to flap over
and seal with tape. Also make sure your postage is on the outside
of the bag not on the card.
DOILY ENVELOPES
Use one of the 8" doilies to make beautiful dainty envelopes
for hand-delivery.or place inside a cello envelope to mail.
BAGALOPE - ENVELOPE
GIFT BAG - ENVELOPE TOTE
Standard Size Envelopes * Decorative Scissors * Hole Puncher * Rubber
Stamps * Monoadhesive or Double-Stick Tape
1: Seal the envelope closed.
2: Using decorative scissors, cut off one short side of the envelope.
3: Score along all three edges - equal on all three edges. Make
crisp crease by folding the score line both ways.
4: Stamp and decorate now - allow inks, etc. to dry.
5: Open the cut edge.
6: Fold the scored edges inwards (valley folds - look at a grocery
bag or other bag of that type to get an idea).
7: The bottom of the bag will form two points at bottom sides. Use
Monoadhesive or Double-Stick Tape to tack down the two points &
press to the bottom of bag.
8. You can make a handle to attach to the bag or you may punch a
couple of holes on the front of the bag & string ribbon or raffia
to form a bow to close the bag.
PURSE-A-LOPE
1. Fold gussets on 3 sides of an envelope (sturdier ones work the
best).
2. Fold over the 2 sides & bottom - ½ " to ¼"
wide.
3. Fold back & forth for a strong, burnished crease.
4. While flat stamp your purse as desired.
5. Put your hand into the envelope & turn it into a purse by
making the sides stand out as gussets & the bottom into a purse
bottom.
6. Fold the bottom triangles under & glue or tape them down.
7. Fold the envelope flap over the top. Use a hold punch to make
2 half circles at the top of the purse. Thread a piece of ribbon
through the holes & tie inside the purse.
8. After putting a small gift inside the purse you can seal the
flap closed, or use a small piece of Velcro to close.
FLOCKING
Apply adhesive only to the area that you wish to cover with flocking.
Craft glue is recommended for the most durable adhesion.
For a thin layer of flocking, brush on a thin even layer of glue
and sprinkle flocking. For a thick layer of flocking, use a thicker
layer of glue and sprinkle a heavy layer of flocking.
Gently press the flocking into the adhesive and then sprinkle on
a second layer of flocking.
Let the surface dry thoroughly before handling. When dry, excess
flocking may be returned to the container. A little goes a long
way.
VELVET PAPER
Peel backing from sticker paper. Lay paper on work surface sticky
side up. Pour flocking onto sticky side, then press flocking with
fingertips for best coverage. Pour off excess..then stamp.
FOILED GIFT
WRAP
1. Emboss an open image without a lot of detail (like balloons,
hearts, flowers, jar, cauldron, Star of David, etc.) onto the front
of a card. Use Black Colorbox & Clear Emboss Powder.
2. Stamp the same image onto plain foiled holiday gift wrap, simply
using a dye-based ink. You can cut out the whole image or parts
of it.depending on the look you want to go for. Cut on the "inside"
line of the image.
3. Glue the foiled piece or pieces inside the embossed image on
the card.
BUBBLE BACKGROUND
There are two variations to this technique..see which one you would
like to try.
Method #1
1. Put detergent into a bowl & toss ink on top of it.
2. Stick a straw in & blow bubbles onto your cardstock, letting
the bubbles pop onto the card.
3. The cardstock does not have to be glossy..however that does work
best.
Method #2
1. Brayer a color onto glossy paper.
2. Take a small bottle of bubbles & blow bubbles in the air.
3. Try to "catch" the bubbles with your brayered cardstock.
4. It works best when you blow the bubbles immediately after you've
brayered your background.
COOKIE CUTTER
1. Make your own die cuts.
2. Trace the cookie cutter to the front of your cardstock with a
pencil..follow the line with a marker or metallic marker. Stamp
around or inside your cookie cutter shape.
3. Trace the cookie cutter to the front of your card. Cut out the
shape with a craft knife.to make a shaped window. Make a shaped
note card, using the cookie cutter shape as your outline.
CLASSIC BLOCK
STAMPING - SHADOW STAMPING
First of all shadow stamping is the name applied to a certain line
of stamps by Hero Arts. They have various sizes of Shadow Stamps.
Basically it's a square or rectangular solid block of rubber (although
unusual shapes can be found)..the edges are unique as they aren't
perfect..almost a torn look. You stamp in a soft muted color (such
as dye pad or even an Encore metallic ink)...stamp off some of the
excess on a scratch sheet of paper. Then stamp onto card. Some of
you have already been doing something like this with our Two-Step
stamp sets! You can do something like this with excess rubber that
you've cut from your stamps too. From there, there are various techniques
that can be done. The techniques below are from the Hero Arts website.
Basically this is the classic coupling of solid block and open line
images.
Basics
1. Consider the size to the shadow stamp that you have (or made).
If you plan to stamp a smaller image inside the shadow the size
must fit into the shadow..the shadow stamp "frames" your
image. Stamp a few blocks together..then stamp a larger image that
will fit on all the blocks.
2. To get different grades of color..use a 2nd or 3rd impression..the
shadow gets increasingly lighter as you stamp. Stamp on scratch
paper first & then stamp without reinking onto your card. Once
your impression dries, it has a nice marbled and beautifully textured
background quality with just a hint of the soft wash of Shadow Ink
color.
3. You have now stamped a "shadow" onto your card. The
next step is to add the image of your choice "inside"
the shadow. Black ink works best to best emphasize your image.although
any saturated color works fine. You will see the soft muted shadow
subtly but elegantly emphasizes any image you stamp inside of it.
Shadows make a great backdrop for highlighting any fine etching
or bold stamped image.
Different
Techniques for Shadow Stamping
Plain Shadow
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Stamp. Ink second stamp design onto
stamped shadow.
Edges Only
Ink edges only on the shadow stamp. Use edges of pad, Dauber Duos,
or markers.
Shadow in a Shadow (Kissing Method)
Ink shadow with pigment ink, but do not stamp. Take smaller uninked
shadow and press into center of inked shadow stamp. Ink will be
removed from
center area. Stamp onto paper. Area in middle will be lighter and
slightly framed. Stamp design of your choice in center.
Monoprint (Another Kissing Method)
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Take clean, uninked stamp and stamp
onto inked area. Clean off stamp each time you take ink off. Stamp
onto paper to get
your monoprint.
Textures
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Stamp onto corrugated cardboard. Slightly
turn stamp and stamp again. Grid design will be on your inked area.
Stamp shadow onto paper and pattern will appear.
Stamp on Stamps
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Take a smaller stamp and ink in a darker
color. Randomly stamp onto first stamp. Stamp onto paper and pattern
will appear.
Stylus Designs
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Take stylus or pencil and draw into
inked area on stamp. Stamp onto paper and patterns you've drawn
will appear.
Shadow, Shadow, Shadow
Ink first shadow and stamp. Ink smaller shadow and stamp diagonally.
Ink third shadow and turn again. Ink stamp of your choice on top
of all three.
(Block/Shadow Stamps can be found at: Hero Arts, Impress Rubber
Stamps, Magenta, A Stamp in the Hand, Stampers Anonymous & Rubber
Tree
Stamps. But remember..you can always make your own out of excess
rubber!)
WET AND DRY
EMBOSS
1. Stamp an outline stamp with the Basic Black ink pad & let
dry completely.
2. Use a wet Q-tip and go around edge of the outline. Place on your
mouse pad & trace outline with stylus.
3. Turn over and use the wet Q-tip again to moisten inside the outlined
area. Use your stylus to "color" in the wet area (inside
the outline). This makes the image "pop up" on the right
side of your project.
4. Allow to dry. Color in with pastels &/or embellish with glitter.
DRY EMBOSSING
- BLIND EMBOSSING - PAPER EMBOSSING - DEBOSSING
Materials: Lightbox * Stencil (plastic or brass) * Stylus Tool *
Stencil Tape/Drafting Tape * Cardstock /Vellum Cardstock
Directions:
1. Tape or place stencil in place over a lit lightbox. Position
card over desired image on stencil. You'll see the shape though
your cardstock.
2. Use a stylus tool to trace around perimeter of stencil shape,
creating raised or recessed effect around your stamped image. Pressing
from the front of your card makes a recessed pattern. Pressing from
the back makes a raised pattern.
Debossing Metal:
You can also "deboss" a thin sheet of metal.
1. Sandwich a metal sheet between two identical stencils and line
it up. Wrap tape around top and bottom edges of the stencil pair
to hold layers. Press the stylus along the stencil pattern to "deboss"
the design into your card. Use all or part of a stencil pattern
to deboss.
2. You can also stamp on one side of the metal sheet (.36 gauge
copper metal - found in a roll - may find in sheets?) with black
ink. Use an image that is not extremely detailed.
Take a stylus & follow the pattern. On the reverse side you
will have a raised image.
METAL EMBOSSING
(Debossing)
Sheets of metal Aluminum-medium weight or Copper -light weight
Outline Stamp of Choice
Tissue Paper
Black ink
1. Cut small
piece of metal to fit stamp.
2. Stamp with black ink on tissue paper or vellum.
3. Place metal on soft surface or rubber mat.
4. With fine point of stylus lightly trace image of stamp onto reverse
side of metal. For a puffy embossed design lightly trace image in
metal several times.
5. Emboss into puffy areas with eraser end of pencil or other smooth
end like a Bic stick pen, you can push inside of stamped image.
6. Cut out design and apply to card or project with adhesive.
7. To add permanence (so it won't be crushed) fill in the back of
the design with plaster, wax or resin.
8. To add color or a patina, apply paint before mounting. After
a few minutes, rub off dry and polish. Varnish is optional.
Note:
This technique can also be down with 4 to 5 layers of the thick
of extra strength aluminum foil. You will have to secure each layer
with an adhesive. Roll the cut edges to hide the layered cuts.
Also remember to work on a soft smooth surface as the metal will
pick up any creases, dips or raised impressions.
FOIL STAMPING
(variation of Metal Embossing)
Extra Strength Aluminum Foil or Disposable Pie Tin/Roasting Pan
* Rubber Stamps *
If you are using extra strength aluminum foil.layer your foil, making
4-5 layers thick. You will have to secure each layer with a spray
adhesive. Before stamping you must make sure the foil is smoothed
out (use a credit card or scraper). Stamp your image on the "reverse"
side of the foil (the non-shiny side)..use a dye-based ink.doesn't
matter what color. After stamping, place foil on a magazine or cushioned
surface like a mouse pad.
On the same side that you stamp, use a stylus/embossing tool to
follow your design lines. If you are using a word or greeting stamp,
you will need to stamp it first onto thin paper, then flit it over
& trace on the reverse/mirror image side..otherwise your words
will read backwards. With the stylus you are pushing the design
through to the front of the foil, you get the elegant look of raised
embossing on a metallic surface. Finished foil pieces can be trimmed
with decorative scissors & glued to fronts of cards. They look
stunning with a window cut out of the front to fit the image
too.
Other Ideas:
1. Color in images with permanent markers, outline a bold stamp
& then fill in the background with little squiggles, lines,
dashes, etc.
2. If you don't have extra strength aluminum foil.you can use the
bottom of a disposable pie tin or roasting pan.
CORK STAMPING
You can find cork in craft stores, some stamp stores & even
an automotive store!
1. Stamp your image with Basic Black Ink Pad (if using an outline
image).
2. Color in with markers. Because the cork soaks up a lot of ink..you
will have to blot the ink many times. Let dry.
3. You may cut around the image with decorative scissors or regular
scissors.
4. Hot gluing the cork, when layering, is the best way to adhere
the cork to your card.
SHAKER CARD/Foam
Core
Supplies:
Piece of foam core cut to the size of card * Piece of card stock
for back * Piece of decorative paper or one you've made for front
of card * Piece of acetate
* Confetti or other for filling * Ribbon * Stamps * Glue * Craft
Knife * Markers * Pencils for Coloring Images
1. Cut the foam core to the card size, then using a stamp positioner,
stamp the outside image on it. Cut out the hole just a bit larger
than the image size. (If you prefer you can just cut a simple shape
as per your final outside decoration needs.)
2. Stamp the image on a decorative or plain piece of paper or cardstock
that you have stamped. Carefully cut out the center just a bit smaller
than the image itself. (This is for the outside of the card.)
3. Stamp the inside on the card stock so it will be seen through
the hole in the foam core. (The easiest way to do that is to use
a pencil & trace through the hole very lightly as a guide, then
erase it after stamping.)
4. Glue the foam core to the card so the inside image will show
through the hole & put in the confetti & glitter. Then glue
a piece of acetate over it.
5. Glue the decorative piece over all of that & put a ribbon
around the sides to hide the ugly edges of the foam core.
SHAKER CARD/Cardstock
Supplies:
½ sheet card stock (folded) ¼ sheet card stock (cut
slightly smaller) ¼ sheet acetate Confetti Stamps
1. You can make a shaker card using a stamp that has a large opening
in it such as the center of a frame stamp. Or you can cut out the
lower body part of the snowman in the "Let it Snow" set
and stuff him full of glitter and fake snow.
2. Stamp and emboss image on the front of the (folded) ½
sheet of card stock. Also at this time emboss or stamp any other
images to the front of the card.
3. With an craft knife, cut out the inside of the embossed image,
so that you have a hole (opening)
4. Use monoadhesive to attach the acetate to the inside of the front
of the card.
5. Use foam mounting tape to make a "barrier" around the
acetate covered opening. Being careful as to not let the mounting
tape show through to the front side. You need this barrier to keep
the confetti, glitter or beads in.
6. Add beads, confetti or glitter. You can even add stamped images
or shrink plastic, seeds and herbs. What you can add is limited
to your imagination.
7. Before the next step, you can stamp or emboss the ¼ sheet
of card stock with a greeting that would show through the window.
8. Now, peel off the backing to the mounting tape and attach your
¼ sheet of card stock.
Before attaching the ¼ sheet of card stock, make sure to
look to see if it was upside down or not.
WATER CARD -
SEAL A MEAL CARD
(Note: You will need an item called Seal-A-Meal or Eurosealer to
do this project)
Materials:
Bag Sealer * Plastic bag/rolls used for sealing liquids and ...foods
* water or other liquids such as shampoo, hair gel, etc. * mylar
confetti or small trinkets
such as flat ...beads, small shells, sand, etc. * cardstock or blank
cards * utility knife * Monoadhesive or Double-Stick Tape * Rubber
Stamps * Food Coloring (optional)
Directions:
Step 1: Form the pouch (using your bag sealer and plastic) with
three sealed sides (2"X3" is a good size).
Step 2: Fill the pouch with a small amount of water or liquid -
you only need about 1-2 tablespoons. Add your confetti or small
trinkets to the pouch. For a touch of color, use food coloring unless
you're using colored hair gel!
Step 3: Carefully press the air out of the pouch and seal the remaining
side, forming a fully enclosed, fairly flat pouch with the liquid
& confetti completely sealed inside. Make sure you have no leaks!
Step 4: Make your card if necessary, fold your cardstock to form
a card. Decorate your card however you wish with rubber stamps,
etc.
Step 5: On the front of your card, cut out a small window with your
utility knife. The size of the window should be smaller than the
size of your pouch.
Step 6: Assemble the card and pouch: tape the edges of your sealed
pouch to the inside of the card so that your pouch shows through
the window that you cut in the front of the card. Use glue or double-stick
tape to seal closed
the edges of your card. You are done! Shake your card to see the
confetti float across the window in the card.
Note: If you intend to send this card through the mail, its best
to enclose the card in a padded and protected mailer to avoid getting
your card "popped" by the automatic letter handling machines.
You want your recipient to receive an ultra cool water card, not
a soggy mess!
STICKER PAPER
1. Stamp images on sticker paper and color if needed with markers.
Cut out images and place on top of brayered backgrounds.
2. Brayer on a piece of sticker paper, then stamp an image that
is open (like a vase, Easter egg, balloon, etc.).cut out and layer.
MONOCHROMATIC
This means using 1 color. Design a card that uses cardstock, ink
pad & marker of the same color..using white or another neutral
color to show contrast.
You may stamp an image in Basic Black, color image in with one color,
flick edges with the same color & layer onto the same colored
cardstock. Very simple.
PAPER TOLE
Paper tole is
an art technique in which part or all of an image is raised from
the surface to give a 3 dimensional effect which enhances the natural
shape of the image. For example, this technique can be used to emphasize
the curved petals of a flower or the rounded curve of a balloon,
apple or strawberry. Three basic types of paper tole techniques
used with rubber stamping:
Simple Tole
1: A duplicate of an image is stamped on a different paper, colored
and carefully cut out. This duplicate is then mounted on top of
the original with foam mounts, causing it to be raised. One or more
pieces of foam mount can be applied, depending on the height desired.
Simple Tole
2: Part of an image is carefully cut out and lifted from the surface
of the card to give it "life." For example, a butterfly
wing or a few petals from a flower can be lifted out. A piece of
matching or contrasting cardstock can be glued to the back of your
work to fill the cut areas. A simple way to tole an entire large
flower is to stamp and color a duplicate image, cut out the petals
up to the center, fold or curl outward, and glue the center of the
flower onto its original with rubber cement.
True Paper Tole:
Each element of a duplicate image is cut out separately with an
X-acto® knife, curved or curled, and reapplied directly over
the original. This creates a sculptured, layered, three dimensional
effect.
True Paper Tole
Rubber Stamps (Bold images work best) * Scissors * hot glue gun
* Spoon * Pen * Paintbrush handle (You will use these for curling
and curving pieces.)
Basic Technique:
1. Stamp out the desired image on the front of your card and color
it.
2. Stamp out and color an identical image on a separate piece of
cardstock.
3. Cut out all (or some) of the design elements from your duplicate
image.
4. For designs with many pieces, number a copy of the original and
your duplicate pieces to match. This will help you to find the right
position for your pieces.
5. Color over the edge of your cut pieces to hide the white cut
marks.
6. Curve or curl each individual piece around the edge of a spoon,
the tip of a pen, the handle of a small paintbrush, or simply press
it into the palm of your hand. Try to make the curves realistic
for the design.
7. Apply hot glue to the underside of each curved piece. Make it
as high as you wish to raise the image. The curve of the piece will
hide the hot glue.
8. Attach each cut out piece to the corresponding place on the original
stamped design on your card. A tweezers or toothpick will help you
to position it. Begin working with the bottom or back layers first
and build toward the front or top.
HOMEMADE
RUBBER STAMP INK
Powdered Clothes Dye (any color)
1/4 Teaspoon Alcohol
5 Tablespoons Glycerin
Mix dye with alcohol to the consistency of thin cream. Add glycerin.
Stir until well blended. This makes enough to replenish a stamp
pad several times. Pour
ink over stamp pad or a foam-rubber pad that is fine grained. To
make the stamp pad you will need foam rubber and a small plastic
box with lid (such as a
travel soap box). Cut the foam rubber to fit inside the plastic
box. Spread the ink evenly with a brush or a tongue depressor.
HOMEMADE TRANSFER
INK
Use this ink to transfer designs printed with your computer printer
or copy machine. You can transfer to things too small to fit into
your printer or just won't go into your printer, like fabric or
big poster boards. Use your imagination. Try the cartoon section
of you newspaper. Just remember whatever you transfer will be the
reverse image, lettering will be printed in reverse.
Note: transfer ink works well with inkjet printers and copy machines
but not at all with laser printers.
2 tablespoons of soap powder, Ivory Snow of soap bar scrapings.
Do not use detergent
1/4 cup hot water
1 tablespoon turpentine
Combine the soap powder and the hot water in a small jar. Stir until
dissolved. Add the turpentine. Remember don't use the same tablespoon
you use for cooking. Let the transfer ink cool before using or putting
the lid on the jar.
To transfer a design. Start with a freshly printed design. Avoid
using one that has been printed weeks or months prior to project.
Use a paintbrush and brush the ink over the picture to be transferred.
Wait 10 seconds. Place the object to be transferred to on top of
the picture or you could do it in reverse and place the picture
on top of the item to be transferred. Rub firmly with the back of
a spoon. Lift a corner to check if the design has transferred when
completely transferred lift off completely, stand back and admire.
Storage: You may store the transfer ink unrefrigerated forever!
If the ink solidifies just bring it back to a liquid state by placing
the jar in a warm pan of water. Shake well and you're ready to use
it again.
MARBLED TISSUE
PAPER
Materials:
Standard Tissue Paper * Dye Inks Refills * Spritz Bottles * Thinned
White Glue * Fine Glitter * Small Glass Containers (baby food jars)
* Droppers (like
for medicine) * Blow Dryer * Old Newspaper or Protective Covering
Preparation:
1. Crinkle tissue paper in a wadded ball then flatten out with your
hands.
2. Dilute inks with water to your preference of shading in a spritzer
bottle.
3. In small glass containers sprinkle glitter & add thinned
white glue & water.
4. Spread newspaper or protective covering over the area you will
be working on.
Directions:
1. Lay out a sheet of tissue paper.
2. Spray your various colors of ink that you'd like on the paper.
3. Dry with a standard blow dryer whenever your paper gets too wet
to handle.
4. Using a dropper, squirt the glitter/glue solution randomly on
the paper.
5. Continue to dry the sheet completely & put aside as you move
on to the next sheet.
6. Playing & experimenting with combinations of colors is what
makes this so much fun.
When you've finished with your projects & your papers are dry,
press lightly with an iron & fold or roll to store.
TISSUE STAMPING/DECOUPAGE
1. Stamp your image onto tissue paper (you can emboss too). Be sure
to have something behind the tissue as ink will bleed through.
2. If using outline images..color images with markers or colored
pencils. Careful as to not tear the delicate paper.
3. Lightly spray the tissue with a spray fixative..this will keep
colors from bleeding. Tear out images, as if to do a collage or
use one piece of tissue that will fit the glass object.
SLATE STAMPING
You can emboss
an image first or you may apply a coat of white paint in a certain
area on the slate for you to stamp on.
1. Sponge a
little acrylic paint on the slate first. Slate can be a little slick
this helps the ink & color to adhere.
2. You can stamp with Fabrico & heat set. Warning - the rock
absorbs a lot of heat & stays hot for several minutes. Let it
cool or you could burn yourself.
3. You can color in images with watercolor pencils or watered down
acrylic paint.
4. Seal with a clear acrylic sealer spray.
MULTI-LAYER
Matte Cardstock
* Clear Embossing Powder * Emboss Enamel * Variety of Embossing
Powders * Embossing Pad or Pigment Ink
1. Lightly coat
surface of desired cardstock with embossing ink. Tap gently with
the embossing pad or rubbing surface. Take care not to get a thick
coating
or it will "oil" up on you.
2. Emboss with clear powder. Repeat 2-4 times. Don't be afraid to
experiment with colors & metallics, etc.
3. Take your image & ink it up in either the tinted embossing
pad or to add pizzazz, ink up your image with a metallic pigment
ink pad. Either of these will
act as a releasing agent to get your stamp out of the hot embossing
enamel.
4. Set stamp aside & do final embossing layer then while it's
hot, embed the stamp into the enamel. Wait a minute, then pull to
release. Your image should
be "embossed" into the enamel
Variation:
1. Ink up image with metallic pigment ink & set aside.
2. Lay down layers of complimentary pigment ink colors & emboss
with clear powder....repeat 3-4 times.
3. Stamp image into hot final layer of enamel.
EMBOSS PUFF
Ink stamp with Top Boss Tinted Embossing Pad or Colorbox Frost White
Pad.stamp image. Sprinkle image with Emboss Puff, shake off excess.
Heat with Heat Tool.
Different Effects
with Stampin' Emboss Puff:
Pastels: You can apply the pastels to the image after it has been
heated. The pastels adhere to the puffy image resulting in more
dramatic colors.
Watercolors: You can watercolor over or around the Puff giving it
a nice soft effect when you don't want dramatic dark outlines.
Brayer: The sponge brayer works beautifully over the Puff. It works
both dry and wet to create a lovely background, while the Puff resists
color, remaining white and fluffy.
TOTAL EMBOSSED
BACKGROUND
Ink the brayer with embossing ink and roll onto entire paper surface.
You can use colored paper or brayer or sponge the paper in the color(s)
you want. Sprinkle with clear or sprinkle embossing powder and heat.
Try different powders for a variety of looks. For an elegant look,
emboss the entire sheet with gold or another metallic powder. You
can use this to layer, punch out shapes, cut strips..accents for
collages.
RAINBOW EMBOSSING
Materials: Top Boss Clear Embossing Pad 2-3 Different Embossing
Powders
1. Ink up your image with embossing pad.
2. Pour the first color of embossing powder on only part of the
image & shake off excess. Repeat until you have covered the
image with the different embossing powders that you have chosen.
When adding a new embossing powder....it will not stick where there
is already embossing powder.
3. Heat the entire image with heat tool. You now have a rainbow
effect with different colored powders on the same images.
EMBOSSING ON
METAL
Thin Sheets of Metal in Copper or Gold * Rubber Stamps * Embossing
Ink * Gold or Copper Embossing Powder * Heat Tool*Old Pair of Scissors
* Pencil * Gloves * Masking Tape * Silicone Adhesive
Instructions:
1. Wear gloves to protect hands from being cut on metal. Cover sharp
edges of metal with masking tape.
2. Determine size of metal (for embellishing wood box)
3. Use pencil & ruler & lightly mark wrong side of metal.
4. Use scissors to cut metal to desired size & shape.
5. Wipe metal with soft cloth to remove dust & fingerprints.
6. Ink stamp with embossing ink & stamp image onto metal.
7. Sprinkle image with embossing powder.
8. Tap excess off and reserve. Use small paintbrush to brush away
any unwanted powder from metal.
9. Use heat tool to melt embossing powder. Lay metal piece on table
or hold with glove, as metal will become hot.
10. Adhere stamped metal with silicone adhesive (to wood box &
brass tacks)
LIP PRINTS
Make your own personalized lip prints. Use lipstick, lip gloss or
balm, or even a TINY bit of pure glycerin and apply as you would
lipstick, only very lightly, you don't want the extra 'grease' to
soak into your card/envy. Dust with any color EP and heat, there
you have YOUR lip print on your card or envy. You might need to
clean the outline up a tiny bit with a dry paintbrush. Practice
a bit first.
EMBOSSING TERRACOTTA
Seal the terracotta tiles very lightly with a coat of acrylic spray
sealer. Let dry.
Figure out a pattern on scratch paper before stamping on tile.
Stamp with pigment ink & sprinkle embossing powder. Tap off
excess powder, use a paint brush to remove stray powder.
Melt powder with a heat tool. Embossing takes longer to melt on
terracotta than it does on paper. Be careful as tile gets very hot.
This is for decorative purposes only.
STAMPIN' EMBOSS
ENAMEL - OVER EMBOSSING
This is a large grain, clear embossing powder that is versatile
in use. Many different textures can be achieved. The large granules
spread out as they are heated, creating a smooth, glassy, extra
thick surface.
1. Apply a thin layer of clear embossing ink over the entire surface
to be treated.
2. Pour enamel onto surface, insuring it's completely covered, tap
off the excess.
3. Melt with your heat tool. Immediately, while it's still hot,
pour more enamel on top & heat again.
4. You can do this process 2-3 times..depending on the texture you
would like to have. A single layer of embossing enamel gives a bumpy
texture, like water drops on glass. To build up texture and dimension,
add a second coat in the same manner. A third coat produces a surface
as smooth as glass.
Tips:
1. Place the surface that you will be embossing inside a shoe box
or something you have on hand. The powder flies everywhere, this
way you'll have more control. Or to apply a heavy coat of enamel,
heat from beneath to prevent it from blowing away in the melting
process.
2. Many people put there embossing powders in containers other than
the jars that hold them. A place Tupperware container works nice.
This way you can spoon or dip your work in the embossing powder.
Eliminating the need to put it back in a small jar & getting
powder all over the place.
CLEAR ON CLEAR
EMBOSSING
Using clear or slightly tinted embossing pad, stamp your image on
colored paper. Use clear embossing powder over the clear inked stamped
image & heat emboss it. You now have a subtle, yet elegant looking
stamped image that shows through the color of your paper. The clear
outline of the embossed image with catch your eye against the colored
background of the paper you have chosen.
VELLUM EMBOSSING
White Vellum * Embossing Pad (white or other color)
1. Stamp image on vellum with embossing ink, emboss (allow heat
source to warm up to maximum temperature as vellum is not designed
to withstand such heat & will pucker/bubble/scorch rapidly)
quickly.
2. Color the design from behind for a soft subtle stained glass
look with markers or colored pencils. Mop up extra ink & let
dry. You can color the image on top of the vellum for a bright vibrant
look too.
DOUBLE OR TRIPLE
EMBOSSING (using regular clear embossing powder)
Color in design that has already been heat embossed (markers, colored
pencils, pastels). Brush or sponge clear embossing ink from the
pad onto the color areas of the design. Pour on clear embossing
powder & heat. You have now double embossed the stamped image.
Method #1
Rub clear or tinted embossing ink directly on the paper, pour powder,
tap off, heat & repeat 5-7 times.
After your layers are built up, take the stamp of your choice &
ink with pigment ink, color of your choice, set inked stamp aside.
Heat embossed layers until good & melted. Quickly & firmly
press inked stamp into the melted goo. Hold there until melted area
cools. Gently pull your stamp out.
Method #2
Stamp a bold image stamp in pigment ink & emboss in color of
your choice.
Rub clear embossing ink over image. Take a pinch of various colors
of embossing powders & sprinkle here & there over image.
Tap off, & heat. Don't worry about going out of the lines in
your image. Do this until the desired colored effect is reached.
Then finish off with a layer or two of clear powder. Cut out image
& mount with foam tape to card.
Method #3
Stamp image(s) in clear ink & emboss in clear powder.
Rub various colored ink pads over the entire piece of paper &
emboss with clear powder.
Finish with one or tow layers of clear powder using clear ink.
BRAYERING
Brayering is a technique where you use a rubber, acrylic or foam
snap - in roller to apply color, usually for backgrounds. You can
use ink pads or markers to color your brayer. Using an ink pad,
roll your brayer to thoroughly cover it with color. Roll the brayer
over paper. Note: If you are applying ink over glossy paper, make
sure you are using dye-ink, not pigment ink. If you use pigment
ink, the ink will never dry on glossy paper unless you emboss it.
Brayers &
Markers
You can use markers on the brayers to create fantastic backgrounds.
Using a marker, apply ink directly onto the brayer. You can draw
stripes, dots, zig-zags, or whatever you're in the mood for. Repeat
the design using different color markers. When you are done creating
the design on the brayer, roll the brayer onto paper. The design
will transfer to the paper. Use glossy card stock for the brightest
colors. Use matte paper for a softer look.
Brayering
a Rainbow Background
Ink up with the rubber snap-in-brayer on a Kaleidacolor rainbow
pad. Roll the brayer onto glossy cardstock for best results. Roll
back & forth for complete coverage. This will be the basis for
other techniques found on this list.
Brayer: Repeating
An Image - Reverse Image
For a background, ink up a stamp such as a cloud, tree, or flower.
Roll your brayer over the stamp 2-3 times before reinking. Repeat
this process to ink up your brayer. Roll over cardstock for a subtle
background. This is great for landscapes and florals.
Brayer A
Honeycomb Background
1. Ink up your rubber brayer in More Mustard ink & roll over
a piece of bubble wrap.
Brayer/ Rubber
Background
1. Place rubber around an acrylic brayer....bands in different widths
will give you different looks.
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